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| Natural Wine: Nicolas Joly’s principle, "A wine must not only taste good but also be sincere, reflecting the subtleties of its place of origin" guides our search for wines that are true. The House of Glunz has long been committed to organic farming and natural wines and was the first wine shop in
Chicago to host a seminar on biodynamic agriculture. |
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In 1992, Nicolas Joly educated and enthused a somewhat skeptical audience on the problems caused by the widespread use of chemical herbicides, pesticides and fertilizers. Today these discussions are common. Although the practices of biodynamic farming may seem complicated to urban dwellers, the basic principles go back to ancient times when man depended on agricultural knowledge in order to survive. Understanding the effects of the cosmos and its varied energies which affect plant life in different ways at different times, was a given for these early farmers. They understood their land, recognized and corrected the early signs of problems and lived in tune with the rhythms of the universe. If you have visited ancient ruins, you recall how their construction is normally tied into planetary positions. Many biodynamic practices, as set down in the 1920s by the Austrian agronomist Rudolf Steiner, follow these ancient principles.
With modern technology, it is not only possible but a frequent practice to “make” a wine taste good. Laboratory yeasts are selected to ferment at a specified temperature and give the desired aromas and flavors. Deficient juice can be acidified or sugared. New oak, old oak, and various mechanisms can be utilized to make the wine palatable upon release and designed to fit the desired profile. The list of modern techniques available to the winemaker goes on and on, and permits wine to be made for the mass market and priced low. Many of these manufactured wines may be simplistic, but generally taste good.
There is another level of winemaker who believes in using every scientific and and technological tool available in the vineyard and in the winery to create a wine profile that meets the current popular palate. |
Modern techniques can create a wine to achieve high scores from major critics. They work to improve what nature gives them.
But there is another approach...
Wines of site reflect the uniqueness of their vineyard location, their terroir. This concept is the basis of
France ’s AOC,
Spain ’s DO and
Italy ’s DOCG labeling. Factors determining the terroir include climate, wind, rain, slope, aspect, sun exposure, soil and subsoil composition, drainage and any other environmental elements that form the pattern of microorganisms in the subsoil upon which the vine feeds. Because of the great number of factors involved, it is highly unlikely that the same pattern could ever be repeated in another place. A wine can only reflect its terroir, the uniqueness of its vineyard site, if the microbiological life has not been altered or destroyed by chemical herbicides, pesticides and fertilizers. Likewise, the natural yeasts formed in the vineyard continue to guide the character of the wine through fermentation.
When I see a bare soil vineyard, stripped of all vegetation except the wood of the vine, I sense the deadness of the place. Conversely, when standing in Coulée de Serrant, or climbing Chapoutier’s Hermitage hill, or walking Josmeyer’s Grand Cru Hengst, one cannot help but sense the energy of the life forces that are present. The enormous variety of vegetation and insect life is in balance. These places are alive!
Nicolas Joly’s principle, “A wine must not only taste good, but also be sincere, reflecting the subtleties of its place of origin,“ guides our search for wines that are true.
Increasing numbers of natural wines are available now from most of the world’s finest regions. I have attended four international tastings of biodynamic wines. Although there are a number I don’t prefer, I assure you that as a group, the wines offer a purity and balance, complex aromatics and exceptionally long finish. You will not find a more committed group of producers, men and women who believe in the specialness of their parcel of land. |
Throughout The House of Glunz, you will now find symbols indicating the level of natural agriculture achieved by that producer.
Organic: Only natural fertilizers may be used; chemical herbicides and pesticides are banned. Only certain natural preparations may be used against rot or mildew. Many winemakers who practice organic viticulture prefer to not go through the process and expense of certification. They just farm that way because it is better for the wine.
Sustainable farming encompasses a broader set of issues and doesn’t have a definite set of standards in the same way organic farming does. It includes farming practices that preserve and restore the land for future generations. A sustainable farm is economically profitable and also includes quality of life issues.
Biodynamic: Beginning with the practices of organic farming, biodynamics further attempts to manage the farm as a natural living organism. The soil is encouraged to return to its preindustrial state, and vineyard work is coordinated with lunar and other natural cosmic cycles that affect the energy on the planet. In Michael Benziger’s words: "Understanding the universal energies that create and drive the rhythms of nature, we enhance the harmonious environment for the cultivation of unique wines."
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